One Hour Before Work is a series where we take a peek inside the backstage of F&B restaurants to uncover the preparations before the first guest arrives.
I arrived at Mùa Craft Sake at 11 a.m., just before the restaurant's rush hours. Mùa Craft Sake feels like a cozy refuge, hidden behind a wall of lush green trees on a quiet side street. The restaurant's design draws inspiration from the sake-brewing process, creating a cozy and safe atmosphere, as if it were a place to escape the hustle and bustle of life.
“Still interested in trying out a bit of kitchen work?” Chef Tru Lang asked with a smile as he welcomed me. (In my previous mail, I had offered to help in the kitchen if our interview coincided with his busy hours.) “I won’t have to fire you, will I?” he teased, noticing the uncertainty in my expression.
Born to Vietnamese-Chinese parents in France, raised in the U.S., trained in Japan, and now the owner of two restaurants in Vietnam, Chef Tru Lang’s story is as vibrant as his dishes. His culinary philosophy blends Vietnamese ingredients with the “soul” of Japanese cuisine.
It’s an artful balance between the novelty of experimentation and the comfort of nostalgia, infused with personal memories and stories.
How did Boston, Tokyo, Hoi An, and Saigon shape your culinary philosophy?
“Since I was a child, food has always been part of my journey, no matter where I was or what I did,” Chef Tru Lang reflected as we sat in a corner of the restaurant, watching Mùa Craft Sake gradually awaken for a new busy day. His career in restaurants began after college, “I wanted to create experiences with my hands—to bring joy through food.”
That’s why creating an experience is central to everything Chef Tru Lang does, an idea that took shape after his first trip to Japan nearly a decade ago. “I had already been working in the F&B industry for more than 10 years when I first went to Tokyo,” he shared. During three months in Japan, he had the opportunity to explore restaurants and bars while gaining a deep understanding of Japanese culture.
For Chef Tru Lang, Japanese cuisine goes beyond techniques and recipes. “It’s about respecting and celebrating local ingredients,” he explained. “Every village or town in Japan has its own unique ingredients and specialties that the locals take pride in.”
This philosophy has followed him to Mùa Craft Sake, where Vietnamese ingredients are treated with the essence of Japanese cooking.
What is the first dish that inspired your love for fusion cuisine?
With a nostalgic smile, Chef Tru Lang recounted the first fusion dish he had ever experienced during his childhood in the northeastern United States. “My father loved to cook. Every summer, he would make me lobster, served with rice vermicelli, herbs, and honey lemon pepper sauce. At the time, I didn’t realize it was fusion cuisine—I just knew it was delicious.”
However, Chef Tru Lang’s love for fusion cuisine has deeper roots than this story. For him, fusion cuisine is the art of storytelling. “I feel like cooking is a superpower that can take people back to their childhood, letting them relive a memory or emotion. I want to maximize that feeling with some novelty.”
His philosophy reminded me of a scene from Ratatouille. Upon hearing this, he laughed and said, “Exactly. What’s better than mom’s cooking? Or in my case, dad’s.”
Is there any story behind the name Mùa Craft Sake?
Mùa Craft Sake is not just a restaurant; it embodies Chef Tru Lang’s journey and his connection with nature. The name “Mùa” (Season) refers to the change of the seasons and the rhythmic cycles of the earth. “Nature is always changing, and so is cooking,” says Chef Tru Lang. “A chef’s job is to apply culinary knowledge and skills to adapt to these changes.”
His first restaurant - MÙA in Hoi An, sits in the heart of Trà Quế vegetable village, surrounded by nature - fields, rivers, forests, and beaches. There, people truly live by the seasons, cooking with whatever nature has to offer. “But in the city, everything seems to be available year-round. The value of seasonal ingredients thus are undermined. With Mùa Craft Sake, I want to change that mindset.”
The restaurant’s name also highlights sake, the traditional Japanese rice wine. Chef Tru Lang acknowledged that while sake isn’t yet widely popular in Vietnam—where beer reigns supreme—he hopes to change that, “I’m experimenting with using Vietnamese rice and fruit to make sake. I aim to create dishes that celebrate Vietnamese ingredients while embodying the spirit of Japan.”
“Of course, when it comes to Japanese cuisine, sushi or ramen often springs to mind. But Japan has taught me to look deeper; it inspires me to respect not only its cuisine but also nature, local ingredients, culture, and traditions.”
Which ingredient do you find most exciting to work with?
“Sake lees” (or sake kasu), he answered enthusiastically.
“Firstly, only Mùa Craft Sake can produce fresh lees year-round, not only used for our dishes but also distributed to other restaurants,” Chef Tru Lang said. “Secondly, it relates to our zero-waste philosophy. During sake production, there are a lot of leftover lees that typically go unused. Here, I’ve found a way to incorporate nearly all of them into our recipes.”
“How lees are used in cooking?,” I asked.
“To marinate meat as kasu enzymes make the meat softer and more fragrant. Lees are also great for ramen broth or desserts like cheesecake, ice cream, or chocolate," the chef explained. Afterward, he invited me to try the cheesecake made from lees, and I have to admit—it was the most delicious and unique cheesecake I’d ever eaten.
“As for ingredients I’m less inclined to use, I must say the imported ones." Chef Tru Lang continued, “Currently, about 90% of Mùa Craft Sake’s ingredients are local. There are still some special spices that need importing, but I’m working on that. After all, Mùa Craft Sake is just 2 years old, and I’m still researching.”
By now, Mùa Craft Sake was no longer as quiet as when I first arrived but returned to its usual bustling state. I decided to finish our conversation with a lighthearted question: “What’s your favorite food movie?”
“One of my favorites is Eat Drink Man Woman by Ang Lee,” he said. “Recently, I even created a pop-up menu inspired by Wong Kar-wai’s Chungking Express. I love how he uses food to represent human connections.”
Translated by Thúy An
Flavors Vietnam 2024, a partnership between Vietcetera and Mastercard, is a five-month long celebration of Vietnam's F&B scene. An annual occurrence since 2018, this year's theme is focused on “Crafting shared culinary experiences.”
As part of Flavors Vietnam 2024, the Flavors Awards (previously known as the Vietnam Restaurants and Bars Awards) celebrate premier F&B businesses and services across Vietnam. The awards highlight local flavors, exceptional talent, and elevate the significance of Vietnamese culinary culture.
This year, the ceremony will integrate with the Flavors Festival, Flavors Vietnam's first exuberant fusion of food, culture, and live music.
About Flavors Awards:
Location: Ho Chi Minh City (more details forthcoming)
Time: December 2024
Nominate your favorite restaurants, cafes, hotels, and bars for the Flavors Collection categories here.
Special thanks to all sponsors and partners of Flavors Festival 2024: Title Sponsor (Mastercard), Major Sponsor (Diageo - Owner of Johnnie Walker, Tanqueray and Don Julio), Category Sponsor (Home Restaurant), Product Sponsor (Unios), Travel Partner (be), Communications Partner (Vero), and Creative Partner (InSpace-Creative).
Join us and learn more about Flavors Festival and Flavors Awards 2024 here.
18+ Drink Responsibly.
Please do not share with those under legal drinking age.