One Hour Before Work is a series where we take a peek inside the backstage of F&B restaurants to uncover the preparations before the first guest arrives.
Among the 99 Michelin-selected restaurants announced this year, one standout is Nén Light Saigon, a young restaurant led by Founder/Executive Chef Summer Le. Despite being in operation for nearly three years, it has earned a spot on the Michelin Selected list twice in a row.
However, what actually caught my attention is the name - Nén. which refers to fresh chive bulbs (Vietnamese: củ nén), a humble yet key ingredient in the Quang noodles from Vietnam’s Central region. As I dig deeper into the Nén Light's backstory, I am more impressed by how this fine-dining restaurant stays deeply rooted in its cultural heritage, honoring its homeland with such dedication and commitment.
Curiosity drew me to Nén Light Saigon on a drizzly afternoon, just before opening at around 5 p.m. The atmosphere was calm, with only a few staff quietly adjusting tables in the intimate dining hall, which seats up to 40 guests. The soft sounds of chopping drifted from the kitchen, adding to the serene vibe.
What surprised me most was the sense of rhythm and focus each team member had—completely different from the bustling kitchen chaos I had anticipated.
Not wanting to take up too much of their valuable time, I set myself a 5-minute challenge. In just five minutes, what stories would each member of Nén Light share?
Lê Thức - Head Chef
My main role is overseeing the kitchen and ensuring everything runs smoothly.
A big part of my job is checking for diners' food allergies and finding suitable ingredient replacements. For example, if a guest is allergic to beef, I’ll replace it with something similar in texture, such as melo melo (Indian volute).
I’m not always at the restaurant, as Nén operates two locations—Nén Light in Saigon and another in Da Nang—so I fly between the cities every 15 days. In Da Nang, we source most of our ingredients directly from our own garden to uphold our commitment to hyper-locality.
To maintain the same standard at Nén Light, we deliver homegrown ingredients from Da Nang to Saigon, ensuring that our dishes stay true to their roots, no matter the location. Due to the nature of my job, I sometimes step in as the shipper too (smile).
Nguyễn Quốc Thái - Commis Chef
My job is to prepare all the ingredients - washing vegetables, defrosting food - so that everything is ready for the cook to do his job later.
Does the work ever feel boring?
Not at all! We offer a variety of set menus for guests to choose from in advance, so each day brings new tasks and ingredients to work with.
For example, today I’m working with Buddha’s hand, star gooseberry, and Barbados cherry. Buddha’s hand is rarely used as an ingredient in cooking, but at Nén, where each Vietnamese ingredient is cherished and fully utilized, we use a Japanese technique called kosho to make Buddha’s hand salt for a dish called Beeswax – Buddha’s hand – Gandaria in Sto:ry Menu #0.
Trần Ngọc Đăng Khoa - Presenter - Front of House
Presenter is quite a strange role. So, what exactly do you do?
In other words, the presenter acts as the storyteller, guiding diners through their entire experience at Nén. Presenter is in charge of explaining the use of each ingredient and connect guests with the deeper narrative behind every dish, enriching the overall dining journey.
In most restaurants, this job is usually taken by the chef, but at Nén, stories are such an integral aspect of each menu that we have a dedicated role for it.
What will a presenter do when there are no guests yet?
Handling some labour work (laughs). Every Nén's member is capable of doing various jobs. Right now, I’m preparing the sound system, adjusting the lighting, and arranging the tables and chairs to match the number of guests tonight.
I also prepare the chef’s notes for the set menu, which feature hand-drawn illustrations by Chef Summer and details about each dish. Since guests often forget 30-40% of what I explain, these notes help them recall and connect with the dishes more easily.
Xuân Bách - Sake Sommelier
A sommelier is often seen at the table, impeccably dressed, wine bottle in hand. But before the doors open?
Like Khoa, I help with the logistics, arranging the tables, set up dining equipment, and even taking care of the garden and the outdoor bar.
As for my main role, a sake sommelier’s expertise isn’t much different from that of a wine sommelier. I manage the quality of the sake and select bottles that best pair with Nén’s dishes.
Pairing dishes with sake is not yet a popular experience in fine dining. So, why did Nén choose sake for this pairing experience?
Unlike wine, which has clear bitterness and acidity, sake offers a characteristic umami flavor that suits Vietnamese dishes served at Nén. Moreover, the flavor of sake is accessible to diners and pairs well with most menus. Perhaps that’s why Nén Light has been oriented toward sake pairings since day one.
Sena Le - Restaurant Manager/Content Editor
As a manager, my work spans from morning till night. Mornings are typically filled with meetings and operational tasks, and in the afternoon, I head to the restaurant to oversee things.
Besides, I am also in charge of creating content and managing all Nén's social media channels. There is no distinct line between these two jobs as they are just part of my life now.
What sets the service at Nén Light apart from other restaurants?
During my nearly 10 years studying in Japan and being exposed to various cultures, I came to realize the unique sense Vietnamese’s hospitality. There’s no rigid formality between host and guest, but it’s not overly casual either. For me, that hospitality is a ‘sweet spot’ worth embracing and I wanted to integrate it into the service experience at Nén Light.
That’s what motivates me to build and standardize this hospitality-driven service at Nén Light. You should come by during service hours to experience it firsthand!
What Nén Light Means To You?
Nguyễn Quốc Thái - Commis Chef
A place that allows me to deeply connect with my Vietnamese roots through cuisine.
Trần Ngọc Đăng Khoa - Presenter
It’s my youth as I’ve accompanied Nén Light through the transition from high school to university and it's been 2 years now.
Xuân Bách - Sake Sommelier
It’s a space for me to learn, gain experience, and meet people from all over the world.
Sena Le - Restaurant Manager and Content Editor
It’s my life right now, as everything I do revolves around Nén Light.
Flavors Vietnam 2024, a partnership between Vietcetera and Mastercard, is a five-month long celebration of Vietnam's F&B scene. An annual occurrence since 2018, this year's theme is focused on “Crafting shared culinary experiences.”
As part of Flavors Vietnam 2024, the Flavors Awards (previously known as the Vietnam Restaurants and Bars Awards) celebrate premier F&B businesses and services across Vietnam. The awards highlight local flavors, exceptional talent, and elevate the significance of Vietnamese culinary culture.
This year, the ceremony will integrate with the Flavors Festival, Flavors Vietnam's first exuberant fusion of food, culture, and live music.
About Flavors Awards:
Location: Ho Chi Minh City (more details forthcoming)
Date and Time: Saturday, December 7, 2024, from 6:00 PM to 9:00 PM
Nominate your favorite restaurants, cafes, hotels, and bars for the Flavors Collection categories here.
Special thanks to all sponsors and partners of Flavors Festival 2024: Title Sponsor (Mastercard), Major Sponsor (Diageo - Owner of Johnnie Walker, Tanqueray and Don Julio), Category Sponsor (Home Restaurant), Product Sponsor (Unios), Travel Partner (be), Communications Partner (Vero), and Creative Partner (InSpace-Creative).
Join us and learn more about Flavors Festival and Flavors Awards 2024 here.
18+ Drink Responsibly.
Please do not share with those under legal drinking age.