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Riding On The Nostalgic Wheel Of Cyclos

For many, cyclos are not just a mode of transportation but a reminder of a past era, a connection to the days when cities were smaller and life moved at a gentler pace.
Phuong Nguyen
Source: Archival Material

Source: Archival Material

The cyclo, also known as xích lô, has been an enduring symbol of Vietnamese streets for decades. This iconic mode of transportation offers a slow-paced way to travel across the city, becoming a unique and must-try experience for tourists coming to Vietnam. That being said, the cyclo brings more than just tourism values, as its history is closely intertwined with the colonial past and the socio-economic changes in Vietnam.

Rickshaws: The Predecessor Of Cyclos

In 1869, rickshaws were invented in Japan and soon initiated an explosion in personal mobility in Asia in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. During the French colonial period, the French imported two rickshaws into Vietnam from Japan in 1883, from which they produced 50 others to use in Hanoi.

From the 1910s to the mid 1930s, rickshaws became the most popular form of transportation among the colonial elite and wealthy locals in Hanoi and Saigon, providing an example of European colonizers adopting an Asian form of transportation.

During this peak period of rickshaws, many local Vietnamese became rickshaw pullers for their livelihood, and their customers were mostly French colonials and the wealthy. Thus, rickshaws came to be a symbol of economic disparity and colonial oppression, arousing public concern over the difficult lives of rickshaw pullers in the 1945-1946 period.

Gradually, the cyclos emerged as an easier and faster alternative as it was a blend of a rickshaw’s and a bicycle’s design. This innovative means of transport soon caught on and prompted rickshaws’ disappearance from the streets of Hanoi and Saigon.

The First Debut On The Streets Of Hanoi

In 1936, the first cyclo was invented by Pierre Morice Coupeaud, who then launched a promotional event for his invention “cyclos” to Vietnam. This event marked the first appearance of cyclos in Saigon in 1939. With two trained local cyclists, he organized a trial run from Phnom Penh to Saigon (240 kilometers) to demonstrate his cyclos.

However, the first debut of cyclos was not based in Saigon but Hanoi. In 1938, a few dozen cyclos started operating on the streets of Hanoi, initiating a period of cyclos gaining prominence and becoming a major means of transportation.

Once A Cultural Symbol

In the time of the French colonial period, cyclos were utilized by a diverse group of individuals, from businessmen on their way to work, families going into the markets and tourists traveling through the city. The cyclo became an integral part of the street life in cities, and the image of cyclos together with the old French-style neighborhoods became an iconic symbol of Vietnam’s culture at that time.

After 1975, Vietnam’s socio-economic transformation gradually changed the cyclo’s role due to the rapid urbanization and motorization. However, the cyclo did not disappear but transitioned from a popular form of daily transportation to an interesting tourist experience in the contemporary time.

Moreover, the cyclo has retained its connection with the working class. Most cyclo drivers today are elderly men who often work long hours to earn a modest income, and the cyclo represents a livelihood they have relied on for decades.

Mr. Lai, a 75-year-old cyclo driver, shared: “I’m used to it, my life has been attached to this iron horse for decades. Although times have changed, I still love this job. This morning, I had 2 trips for about a few tens of thousands, but I’m happy because at least there are still customers who need me”.

Take A Cyclo Ride

Riding a cyclo in Vietnam offers a local and authentic experience, particularly in the old cities of Hanoi, Hue, and Hoi An. Here are some recommendations to explore these historic destinations and immerse yourself in their charm and heritage while enjoying the leisurely pace of a cyclo ride.

In Hanoi

A cyclo tour in Hanoi enables you to embark on a leisurely ride around Hoan Kiem Lake, delve into the bustling streets of the Old Quarter for an authentic local experience, and even visit the sights around Ba Dinh Square, which may be a bit far to reach on foot from the Old Quarter.

In Ho Chi Minh City

A cyclo tour in HCMC offers a unique way to explore the daily life of this dynamic city. You can spot bustling markets, an ancient pagoda, and gain a whole new appreciation for this lovely city.

In Hoi An

A cyclo tour in Hoi An gives you a ride through the ancient town and allows you to feel like you’ve stepped back in time. You can explore the narrow streets lined with centuries-old houses, visit the famous Japanese Covered Bridge, and witness the lantern-lit ambiance in the evening.

In Hue

A cyclo tour in Hue offers you a ride through the city center, visiting landmarks such as the Imperial City, which served as the political and cultural heart of the Nguyen Dynasty. The cyclo tour allows you to appreciate the old buildings, royal tombs, and other historical sites, offering a unique perspective on Hue’s cultural heritage.


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