Fish Sauce and Fortitude: Anh Le's Vietnamese Culinary Conquest of Copenhagen

Anh Le, a Vietnamese-Danish restaurateur, has revolutionized Denmark's culinary landscape since 2002. Inspired by a nostalgic longing for the flavors of her homeland, Anh and her siblings introduced authentic Vietnamese street food to Copenhagen, sparking a gastronomic phenomenon.

From a single restaurant with three-hour queues to owning over a dozen establishments at their peak, the Le family's journey epitomizes resilience and cultural bridge-building. Despite facing setbacks, including bankruptcy, Anh's passion for sharing Vietnamese cuisine persists.

Today, with four new restaurant concepts and a legacy of educating Danes about Vietnamese food through media and cookbooks, Anh continues to shape the intersection of Danish and Vietnamese cultures through the universal language of food.

What inspired you to introduce Vietnamese cuisine to Denmark?

Our family arrived in Denmark in 1979. At age 20, I couldn't find much information about Vietnam. This curiosity led my siblings and me to embark on a life-changing adventure to Saigon in the mid-90s.

I fell in love in a second when seeing people who looked like me, the charms of Saigon, the beautiful landscapes, and the food. But do you know what I missed most when I returned to Denmark? The distinct aroma of fish sauce.

That's when I thought if I could bring just a tiny portion of Vietnam to Copenhagen, even just that beloved fish sauce, then I would have succeeded.

How did you start your culinary empire in Denmark?

In 2002, my siblings and I opened Denmark's first Vietnamese street food restaurant in Copenhagen. The response was overwhelming. The Danes loved it, and the queue was 3 hours long for a table.

By 2003, we were featured in the Herald Tribune and Travel + Leisure magazine, followed by Danish media coverage in 2004. This exposure fueled our rapid expansion.

How did you manage such rapid growth and expansion?

We were one of the first and only in the market, so we didn't have any competition. We could invest further and fast due to the big sales income.

Our family unity was key to our success. We were capable of expansion because we were 5 partners in the family, which means we could each control our department.

However, this came at a cost. We worked hard for 17 years without high salaries.

What challenges did you face at the peak of your success?

At our peak, we owned over a dozen Vietnamese restaurants. However, the pressure took its toll. We got worn out and decided to sell the company, bringing in a CEO to prepare for the sale.

Unfortunately, this decision led to unforeseen challenges. Within a year, the company was torn apart within management, quality, and economically. The company eventually filed for bankruptcy.

How did you contribute to educating Denmark about Vietnamese cuisine?

We spent a lot of time and money teaching Danes about Vietnamese food. Our efforts included national TV appearances, a food program called "Spis Vietnam" (Eat Vietnam) in 2012, and five cookbooks between 2008 and 2018.

Today, our hard work has paid off. Now, Danes know Vietnamese dishes and go straight for a banh mi or pho without me spending 10 minutes explaining it.

What do you think makes Vietnamese food so appealing to Danish palates?

Vietnamese food is first of all fresh and healthy, with an amazing balance of crispiness, softness, texture, and umami in each dish. The fish sauce also makes people crave more.

I think this surprises the Danes as they don't know which secret ingredient makes them come back for more.

What are your current projects after facing setbacks?

After losing our restaurants in 2019, my siblings and I took a four-year break. Now, we're back with four new concepts: Brasserie Saigon, Banh Mi CPH, An's Spiseri & Takeaway, and Cholon. We've learned that we are much stronger and can restart again no matter what happens.

I believe it's because we are Vietnamese and used to hard times.

What are your future plans?

As for what's next, we're considering our options. Are we staying here in Copenhagen or should we bring it back to Vietnam?

My answer is: my roots are in Saigon. With our resilience and passion, it's clear that my family and I will continue to shape the culinary landscape, wherever our journey takes us next.

And you can be sure that wherever we go, the aroma of fish sauce will follow, reminding us of home and the journey that brought us here.